Cooking with Chanterelles

By MMS Cooking Corespondent, Mike Tangedal

I have a credible history of cooking wild mushrooms. Over the years, I’ve researched hundreds of recipes and experimented with many on my own. In all this research and experience, I’ve rarely seen a recipe address the conundrum of the wild mushroom forager. Whereas recipes understandably call for exact amounts of ingredients, mushroom blooms do not follow strict guidelines. So, unless one is gifted in the ways of mathematical ratios, a mushroom recipe is more a matter of feel than exacting measures.

Chanterelles are no exception. Soon, it will be July, and the time for chanterelles, boletes, and black trumpets will arrive. Some of the tastiest wild mushrooms in Minnesota are found in the peak of summer. Once you find one chanterelle, you are likely to find more – sometimes enough to fill your entire foray basket! One of the best aspects of chanterelles compared to many other mushrooms is that they can be stored for weeks in the refrigerator in a paper bag. So an exact recipe may be worth pursuing, given that the extra mushrooms will keep for a good while.

A key to reducing extra work when harvesting all the chanterelles is to remember to bring a knife into the woods to slice the mushrooms horizontally at the base before putting them in the basket. Those folds on the underside are particularly prone to retaining grit and sand, so do yourself a favor and don’t complicate the issue by also adding dirt from the base of the mushroom when picked out of the ground. A short, handheld knife makes a clean cut at the base, thereby alleviating the need for extra dirt.

Cutting them at the base also serves another purpose. As they bloom during July and bugs in Minnesota are most prevalent during this time, look at the base of your freshly harvested chanterelles for tiny holes. The presence of these holes is an indicator of bug presence. All is not lost! Unlike many other mushrooms, a few bugs do not ruin the rest of the tasty chanterelle. 

Chanterelle mushrooms can get rather large. When they are over a few inches across at the top, what you will want to do before processing further is to split them in half or even quarters from top to bottom. You can use a knife for this, but they are rather fibrous, so popping them in half from top to bottom is a simple process. This ensures that the larger mushrooms will be cooked through in the middle. 

The next step I’m about to explain will make a world of difference to those who genuinely love the taste of wild chanterelles. To remove the remaining grit and any bug evidence, you will need a large pot, water, and a bit of elbow grease. What you need to do is fill the pot with water up to halfway and then bring it to a boil on the stove. Then add the chanterelle mushrooms and stir vigorously for a few minutes, constantly. When I say vigorously, think more of the function of a washing machine than cooking in a pot. Use a wooden spoon or rubber spatula to avoid damaging the chanterelles. Agitate the water as much as possible without splashing and burning yourself. You want to scrub those chanterelles of all impurities.

Once this is done, dump the mushrooms in a colander over the sink to drain off the excess water. What will remain is par-boiled tasty chanterelles. A chanterelle contains a unique fruity taste that’s found in no other mushroom. When fresh, they smell of apricots. Alas, those who are not well-versed in the ways of wild mushroom culinary delights often describe all this fare as tasting of “mushrooms,” as if that’s a universal standard. While all mushrooms contribute a significant amount of umami components to any dish, the edible varieties bring their own unique flavor, and chanterelles are no exception.

In addition to their unique taste, chanterelles have a wonderful mouth feel. They feel much like eating string cheese, especially with the young ones, which are less than an inch across. Therefore, they add much to any dish that benefits from a chewy component.

Now, Onto the Actual Cooking!

To bring out the most flavor in chanterelles, the key is to first dry roast them. This is also true of most summer mushrooms. Since they are already wet from parboiling, they can be added to a pan over medium-high heat and cooked until all the standing water is boiled off. They won’t stick to the pan because of the water. 

This accomplishes two goals:

• Mushrooms are mostly water anyway, so all that can be boiled away to get to the good stuff. 
• The chitin within the mushroom (the rigid structure) breaks down with heat, and browning brings out the most flavor. 

The key here is to use your nose and eyes to lightly brown the chanterelles while stirring frequently so that those that are done don’t stick. Once the mushrooms are nicely browned, turn down the heat.

I’ve waxed extensively on the wonders of cooking chanterelles without mentioning one ingredient other than the mushrooms. This is on purpose. The key to any good mushroom recipe is to feature the wonder of the actual mushroom. Given that, certain components make chanterelles especially tasty.

The recent culinary trend of “salt, fat, acid, heat” as a means to enhance basic foods applies especially to mushrooms, as they fulfill their niche as a food component, which is the magic of umami. I don’t know any mushroom preparation that isn’t better with a bit of salt. Sometimes, with oyster mushrooms, this salt is best complemented by soy sauce and/or fish sauce, but for most other mushrooms, it’s just your basic salt. Chanterelles don’t require as much salt as many mushrooms, but they do need a bit. Season to your preferred taste. 

In terms of a fat component, you’d be hard-pressed to find a mushroom that doesn’t taste better finished with a bit of butter. Note that I said ‘finished’ and not ‘cooked in.’. Cooking in butter introduces two big complications. First, butter burns at a relatively low temperature, so if you want your mushrooms to brown, the butter may burn before they do. Secondly, raw mushrooms cooked in butter tend to absorb all that fat, so what remains is primarily the buttery taste, not the mushroom. The amount of butter to add after browning the mushrooms is relatively simple. Add enough to coat the mushrooms, but not so much that it leaves puddles in the pan. A nice sheen of butter on a browned mushroom is a beautiful thing.

The next items are optional, but with chanterelles, they may be essential. As chanterelles have fruit notes in their flavor profile, adding a squirt of acid in the form of a fruit, such as a lemon or lime, really brightens all the flavors. I’d suggest using lemon juice if no heat component is added, and lime juice if some heat is being introduced into the dish. Other alternatives to lemon or lime juice include balsamic vinegar; however, this is best paired with other types of mushrooms, such as chanterelles. In terms of how much to add, this is dependent on the source of acid. For lemon or lime juice, I’d follow the guideline of adding the same amount to the same amount of fish. For balsamic vinegar, go with just a touch. This is powerful stuff, and you don’t want it to overpower the mushrooms. 

Heat/spice is purely optional for a chanterelle recipe and depends greatly on what the mushrooms are being added to in the final dish. A few chili flakes make for a delightful enhancement. Here, the amount is due to personal preference. Again, you won’t want to overpower the mushrooms.

Another recent food axiom that rings true is this: “Things that grow together, go together.” This is true of chanterelles. Whatever vegetables are at the peak from the farmers market or your garden in July pair well with some cooked chanterelles. Toss with extra-virgin olive oil and your favorite cooked whole grain, and you have a healthy, delicious dinner. To further enrich the meal, add the cooked chanterelles to a basic white sauce, also known as bechamel. Add some garlic and some fresh herbs, and you’re on your way to culinary perfection. Since the word ‘chanterelle’ is French in nature, perhaps a wine sauce or some other rich French sauce is warranted. 

Bon Appetit!