By MMS Culinary Correspondent, Mike Tangedal
Winter is the time for soup. If you grew up in the Midwest, there’s a high probability that your first exposure to soup came from a can. If you grew up in the United States, no doubt your first exposure to mushroom soup was a particular red and white can. Canned Cream of Mushroom Soup served primarily two purposes.
- As the primary component for all the hotdish and
- As a means to get the primary shopper of the family into the grocery store of note.
Back before the internet, the windows of grocery stores in America would brandish brash banners defying all homemakers not to come in and get as many of the magic cans as they could carry for such little cash. Life was simple back then.
The Red & White Can
Traditions die hard, and much of the population’s exposure to mushrooms remains in any sense the same as red and white can. It was a particular staple in our family during the winter holidays. I once asked my grandma why we never ate green beans without the cream of mushroom soup, and she looked at me like I had asked if lutefisk was Norwegian (it is). But now that we’re deep into the world where all the answers to all the questions are in your phone, it is high time to jump past the commercial can and embrace the wonders of all manner of mushroom soup.
Mushroom Soups in Asian Cuisine
Truth be told, my story comes from a Western influence. Asian culture has been making mushroom soup for thousands of years. Perhaps the most famous here in America is hot and sour soup. This culinary delight occupies a unique niche in the mushroom culinary appreciation group. It is one dish that embraces the sour taste, rather than the classic savory umami fare. I am pretty aware that some love to preserve mushrooms through pickling. For me, pickled mushrooms occupy the same oeuvre as pickled fish or eggs.
I like fish and eggs just as much as anyone could. I do not consider the pickling of those foods to be my favorite presentation. But some folks can’t get enough of the vinegar. Even though sweet and sour soup uses vinegar and mushrooms, the sour is not the main taste component. It’s the mix of soy sauce, ginger, garlic, and mushrooms that really makes this tasty. I’ve made sweet and sour soup myself. I can’t make it taste as good as they do in a Chinese restaurant. If you haven’t tried this, do yourself a favor and order some next time you get the takeout. It’s quite the treat for the mushroom lover.
Mushroom Soups in the Midwest
I love cooking with mushrooms, and I’m from deeply Midwestern stock (soup joke!), so all my soup recipes will derive from my limited culinary background. If you want to elevate miles above the red and white can, I have the easy soup fix for you.
Most people know that the only mushrooms one finds in the megamarts are variations of Agaricus bisporus, the button mushroom. These are fine if you’re not adventurous. But they are ALL grown in animal dung, so wash them thoroughly before using them.
If you happen to be within driving distance of an Asian market, you really should peruse the aisle devoted to dried mushrooms or even scan the produce aisle for the freshly cultivated fare. Usually, a wide variety exists, and they are rather moderately priced, considering you’re purchasing just the pure flavor of the mushroom without all the water content. In my opinion, dried mushrooms are just as tasty as fresh when prepared properly. Although many varieties exist, it is best to stick with the tried and true varieties like dried shiitake or oyster.
Dried Mushrooms in Soup
Before using dried mushrooms, a brief explanation of some technical terms is warranted. Almost all edible mushrooms contain chitin. This is the rigid material that helps the mushroom maintain its firm structure despite being composed almost entirely of water. It’s very much like a dried sponge; the volume will increase dramatically when water is added. What this means for the home cook is that grabbing a handful of dried mushrooms will equate to several cups of rehydrated mushrooms once they reform to their former glory. So don’t grab too much.
Also, before you consent to rehydrating them in plain old water, consider the stock alternative. You are making soup, so stock will bring a lot of flavor to the finished product. You can use any stock (cubes or a container), but be mindful that if you use salted stock, you will want to taste it before adding more to the finished soup. Here’s how I do it.
First, I take a handful of dried mushrooms and put them in the bottom of a large bowl. Then, I add some of my favorite stock, enough to cover the mushrooms when pushed down. Next, I placed a colander on top of the mushrooms to hold them down in the stock, allowing them to rehydrate. Then, I wait at least 20 minutes to ensure the process is complete.
This recipe is for world-class cream of mushroom soup. The only essential components are mushrooms, salt, and milk/cream/half and half. First off, mushroom soup requires proper seasoning. Mushrooms love salt almost as much as potatoes, so season them well. Regarding the liquid, I prefer half and half since it brings just enough of the creamy elements without overwhelming the soup. But if you want whole milk or cream, that’s fine too.
World-Class Cream of Mushroom Soup Recipe
- As for how much cream/milk to add, that depends on how much stock is used to rehydrate the mushrooms. A handful of mushrooms will require approximately 2-3 cups of stock, so adjust the amount of milk or cream accordingly.
- While the mushrooms are soaking, prepare some rice, potatoes, or other vegetables you would like to add to the mushroom soup. It’s your preference. In my opinion, you can’t go wrong with onions or, if you’re fancy, shallots. I like to cook about a cup of onions/shallots in some butter until they’re clear.
- The next step is essential for those who like their soup with some body. Add a quarter cup of butter and a quarter cup of flour, and then cook along with the onions for a few minutes to form a roux.
- Next, add the milk/cream and bring to a simmer. Once it comes to a boil, add the remaining stock by flipping over the colander and dumping the stock from the mushroom bowl into the soup pan. Give the pan a good stir, and before it gets too hot, give it a taste. Add salt and pepper until the dish is properly seasoned.
- Then, cut the mushrooms into the desired size pieces and add them to the soup. For those who prefer a silky, luxurious soup, using a stick blender to mince the mushrooms is an effective method. Once the soup comes to a boil again, let it cook for a few minutes to ensure the mushrooms are fully cooked. Then it’s done.
Does this mushroom soup cost a bit more than the red and white cans of yore? Not that much, considering each of the other components barely costs a dollar per quantity for this recipe. Will it taste better than any cream of mushroom soup you’ve ever had? Yes, it will!
Post-Thanksgiving Mushroom Soup
Since we just finished Thanksgiving and I had a leftover turkey carcass at my disposal. So I’ll tell you about another fabulous soup I make from a turkey carcass and some dried mushrooms. For this one, prepare the dried mushrooms as before, using stock to rehydrate.
An Instant Pot, is the perfect way to remove all the tasty bits from a turkey carcass and create great stock as well. Additionally, since it’s a turkey soup, I opt for the classic trio of carrots, celery, and onion. Cook about two cups each in a big pan with about a 1/4 cup of butter until slightly colored.
Mix this with the remaining bird parts, after removing the bones, along with the stock in the Instant Pot. Again, cut the mushrooms into pieces after soaking and add them to the pot. Salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil for a few minutes, and get ready for the best turkey soup you’ve ever had.
Mushrooms are a flavor elevator. Mushroom soup is the perfect wintertime food with all the umami and warm comforts. Visit a local Asian market and pick up some dried mushrooms to hold you over until spring. Then we can all go foraging and get fresh mushrooms again.